Sustain / Real Bread Campaign / Articles
Ambassador profile: Utako Tanner
A Real Bread Campaign ambassador shares how her relationship with bread has evolved from humble beginnings in Japan into a passionate pursuit.
My breadmaking journey began after I moved from Japan to the UK in 2002. My first attempt was Nigella Lawson's recipe for hot cross buns, which I thought would be a good introduction to British baking. The results were disastrous! Hard as rocks and completely inedible. I was so disappointed in myself, wondering how I could have failed at something that seemed so straightforward on the page.
After my initial baking failure, I became determined to improve my skills, especially as I also wanted to recreate beloved Japanese breads. I had begun missing comforts of home, especially melon pan, which are irresistibly sweet, fluffy buns, covered with a crisp cookie crust. The few bakeries in London that sold them charged premium prices, which I hesitated to pay.
Land of the rising bun
Japanese bread culture may not have as many centuries of history as those in Europe but its evolution is no less fascinating. Breadmaking was introduced to Japan by Portuguese missionaries in the 16th century, but it wasn’t until the Meiji era, in the late 19th century, that bread began to take root in daily life. Rather than merely replicating Western styles, Japanese bakers adapted their craft and products to suit local tastes, resulting in unique creations like anpan (sweet, red bean buns), curry pan (deep-fried bread, filled with curry) and yakisoba-pan (buns stuffed with stir-fried noodles). These breads combine Japanese and Western techniques and flavours, creating comforting and playful new forms.
In Japan, many bakeries wrap their products individually like small gifts, as an expression of a deep appreciation for beauty, detail and hospitality. In this way, Japanese bread is more than just food, it’s an experience shaped by cultural sensitivity, innovation and a deep respect for tradition and taste.
I found a baking class, taught by a Japanese woman, where I learned traditional techniques and precise methods for creating the cloud-like textures characteristic of Japanese bread, including the elusive melon pan I had been craving. Understanding the importance of accurate measurements, appropriate kneading techniques and exact temperature control transformed my baking skills. From humble and uncertain beginnings, my passion for bread-making grew exponentially.
A microbaker is born
Making bread had become my creative escape and I felt a strong desire to turn this passion into something more meaningful. After spending 30 years working in finance offices, my life changed dramatically in 2018. I seized the opportunity to participate in the BBC2 television programme Top of the Shop, hosted by chef Tom Kerridge, cook and restaurateur Nisha Katona and Real Bread Campaign chair Alison Swan Parente*, founder of the School of Artisan Food. This gave me the confidence to listen to my inner voice and make the bold decision to quit my job.
My transformation truly began when I discovered Bread Angels, a peer-to-peer network of aspiring and established microbakers. With their guidance and support, I was able to leave my finance career behind and start my own business, with my unique perspective on Japanese-European fusion breads. Operating as a microbaker allowed me to preserve the integrity of my process, while forming meaningful connections with customers who genuinely appreciate the differences between handcrafted Real Bread and mass-produced alternatives. I also began offering classes in Japanese breadmaking.
The transition from finance to flour wasn't always easy, though. After such a long time of desk work, the physical demands of standing all day while baking tested my body in ways I hadn't anticipated. The early morning starts to prepare fresh bread for lunch deliveries to the City of London and West End, three days a week, were also challenging. I persevered because I was doing something I truly loved. What kept me going were the wonderful customers who believed in what I was doing. Many would order large quantities, eager to share a taste of home with their families.
Sharing skills
As my reputation grew, I had the incredible opportunity to join Bread Ahead, at Borough Market in London, as a bakery teacher. Sharing my knowledge and watching students discover the joy of creating their own bread became one of my greatest pleasures. There's something magical about the moment when a student pulls their first perfectly-baked loaf from the oven; a mixture of pride, accomplishment and their slight disbelief that they created something so beautiful with their own hands.
Just as I was hitting my stride as an instructor, the COVID-19 pandemic arrived, forcing us all to adapt to new realities. I made the decision to leave Bread Ahead and return to my own business, launching online baking classes that allowed me to connect with bread enthusiasts around the world, guiding students through the intricacies of Western and Japanese recipes and techniques. The shift to virtual teaching opened unexpected doors, with this challenging period ultimately expanding my reach and reinforcing my belief in bread's power to bring people together.
Sourdough and sakadane
The most transformative moment was cultivating my own sourdough starter. Watching wild yeasts and beneficial bacteria colonise a simple mixture of flour and water, bringing it to life, felt like witnessing a miracle. Of course, you can use baker’s yeast to make bread quickly but the long, patient, sourdough process speaks to me on a deeper level. It gently reminds me: don’t rush, life is just like this; slow, joyful, and all the more rewarding when you give it time.
I’ve also become fascinated with sakadane, a starter culture made from rice and koji (Aspergillus oryzae), the mould used in making sake, miso and soy sauce. This uniquely Japanese method creates breads with delicate flavours and wonderful textures that are different from wheat or rye sourdough. In the future I would like to introduce more people to this beautiful aspect of Japanese fermentation culture. There's such rich knowledge in traditional methods that deserves to be preserved and shared with a wider audience.
Bread is never just bread
Being a baker, at home and professionally, has taught me that bread is never just bread. It's a cultural artefact, a daily ritual and a medium through which we can build more resilient local food economies. When you make your own, there are no dodgy ingredients or unnecessary additives, and you don’t have to spend a fortune.
With just your hands, a few simple ingredients and a little patience, you can participate in one of humanity's oldest and most satisfying traditions. Together, we can each reclaim our own bread heritage and ensure that the staff of life continues to sustain not just our bodies, but also our communities and our connection to the earth.
As an experienced baker and a Real Bread Campaign ambassador, I'm excited to develop charity workshops and broader community events. I envision hosting breadmaking sessions in local schools, community centres and via online platforms, sharing my joy and craft of artisanal baking with diverse audiences.
*Alison is a Sustain trustee and the long-shanding Chair of the Real Bread Campaign [ed.]
Originally published in True Loaf magazine issue 63, July 2025.
Got something to share?
See YOUR words in print , my baker’s dozen and my favourite bakery.
See also
Published Thursday 20 November 2025
Real Bread Campaign: Finding and sharing ways to make bread better for us, our communities and planet.
