Gut instinct

When only 1% of the population is thought to have coeliac disease, and similarly small numbers have a genuine allergy, why does it sometimes feel that everybody is avoiding gluten these days, asks Naomi Devlin

Teff and sesame pancake ©  Laura Edwards

Teff and sesame pancake © Laura Edwards

Although only around 1 in 100 people have coeliac disease, many others experience bloating, fatigue and weight gain that – rightly or wrongly – they attribute to eating wheat or gluten. Some people believe that these symptoms are caused by the genetic complexity of modern wheat, while others claim that humans are unsuited to eating grains because our guts have not evolved much in the 10,000 or so years since we began cultivating and eating them in quantity. 

Healthy halo

Contrary to the ‘healthy halo’ that marketers and others have built up around commercial gluten-free foods, they are not inherently better for you. When people rely on some alternatives to whole grains, their health may suffer.*

When it comes to what might be causing some people’s non-coeliac responses, my money is on the fact that modern, heavily-processed foods contain more starch, refined sugar and artificial additives than slowly-grown, slowly-prepared foods found in traditional diets. Because low-protein, gluten free flours don’t hold water in suspension the way that a gluten matrix does, products attempting to mimic leavened wheat bread  need a replacement that forms a gel in order to trap the bubbles of CO2 that give bread its structure. Commercially this is achieved with emulsifiers such as carrageenan and carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) that may inflame the gut lining. 

“Commercial gluten free foods are not inherently good for you”

Another issue is that grains used in commercial foods are rarely fermented or sprouted, which may leave them harder to digest by some people. Also, highly refined flours contain little of the fermentable fibre that feeds our gut microbiota.

Nutritious and delicious

I have coeliac disease and choose to eat gluten-free whole grains and ferment them wherever I can in order to maximise their nutritional potential. I do not expect to buy gluten-free Real Bread in a supermarket. Instead, I bake gluten-free sourdough at home and stash it in the freezer so that I can toast it whenever I want.

Rather than trying to imitate the white industrial loaves that might have ruined your digestion in the first place, think about baking something flavoursome and sustaining. The key to baking nutritious and delicious gluten-free wholegrain breads is to start with the inherent qualities of the flours themselves. Buckwheat has a grassy flavour and is good for rise, chestnut has a melting quality and sweet, nutty flavour and teff gives a delicious, malty flavour and silky texture. 

“We can all benefit from diversifying our flour choices”

Natural binders include linseed, chia seed, psyllium husk and slippery elm bark, which some people might also find soothing and anti-inflammatory. Other, non-vegan, binders include egg or yogurt, which are nourishing additions that raise the protein content of a dough, whilst also softening the crumb.

Even if you can eat wheat, we can all benefit from diversifying our flour choices and experimenting with naturally gluten-free – and delicious – other non-cereal flours. 

Teff and sesame pancakes    
Serves 4

I think the best place to start appreciating gluten free grains is to make sourdough pancakes where the eggs and milk do the work of holding things together. The recipe will work with a variety of flours and can be used for burritos and wraps as well as simple breakfasts.

130g brown teff flour 
300ml whole milk or dairy free milk substitute
1tbs live yogurt or gluten-free sourdough starter*
A large pinch of sea salt
50g black or white sesame seeds
2 large eggs
Clarified butter, duck fat, lard or coconut oil for frying

*For instructions on making a sourdough starter, check out the side bar on my blog for a recipe and troubleshooting tips.

Whisk together milk, flour and yogurt or sourdough starter. Cover and leave at room temperature for 6 to 24 hours.
When you are ready to make pancakes, whisk in salt, sesame seeds and eggs – the texture should be like double cream. 
Heat a heavy frying pan over a medium heat. Brush lightly with fat, or use a wad of kitchen paper to give you a nice thin coating. Pour in some mixture and swirl it around the pan to give you a thin crêpe. 
When the underneath is golden brown, loosen gently with a palette knife and flip over to cook the other side briefly. Keep warm in a low oven, while you cook the rest if you are eating them straight away. Pop a piece of parchment paper between each pancake to stop them sticking together.

These pancakes freeze beautifully and are great to have stashed in the freezer for impromptu meals. Just let them defrost at room temperature for 10 minutes or pop into a dry frying pan.

Naomi Devlin teaches at River Cottage and Otter Farm, and is author of River Cottage Gluten Free (Bloomsbury, 2016) and Food for a Happy Gut (Headline, April 2017)

*After this article was written, scientists at Harvard University published a study that looked at more than 30 years of research involving around 200,000 patients, which concluded that simply avoiding gluten could increase the risk of type 2 diabetes by up to 13%.

Originally published in True Loaf magazine issue 31, April 2017

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